08Jun

Rural Hiking in Chengdu

You’d be forgiven for thinking that flat Chengdu didn’t have much to offer those who enjoy a spot of hiking. However, as I just found out, there are excellent trails to be found within the greater Chengdu area.

Recently, we headed to Chongzhou, a short drive from the city centre, to explore some of what Sichuan Adventure has discovered – some beautifully calm trails which roll up and down the hills, forests and rural villages surrounding White Pagoda Lake.

White Pagoda Temple

It was surprising how quickly after the city we were in ‘Rural China’ and as soon as we turned off the motorway, we found ourselves driving through farmlands and paddy fields. Shortly after, we began winding up the mountains surrounding White Pagoda Lake and could catch glimpses of our starting point – White Pagoda Temple and its Stupa, which rise through the trees on top of one of the peaks. The temple, originally built around 600AD, is managed by the next door Nunnery.

Biluo Teahouse

It is exceptional for the fact that one of the Nuns, Master Guoping, decided to build a teahouse and library next door to promote culture and learning, often showcasing museum and art exhibitions. Biluo Teahouse is stunning, commanding views of the surrounding countryside, earning an ‘Instagramable’ reputation amongst Chengdu’s young. We were lucky enough to be invited to catch the beginning of one of Master Guoping’s lectures – amongst the morning Mantras, it was a very calming start to the day.

The Walk Begins

The beginning of the walk quickly took us through farmer’s homes, immediately placing you amongst rural life and allowing you insight into traditions that haven’t changed for decades. The houses are sparse and as you wind your way through the valley to the beginning of one of the trails, you realise that you have definitely left the city behind. The air is fresh and it is quiet! The only sounds you can hear are the birds singing in the trees around you.

We were soon off the concrete path and out of the village, making our way up to the top of our first peak. The whole of the walk is like this – quickly changing scenery, taking you through villages and forests, up and down the mountains, with the greenery altering between different species of trees, bamboo and grass.

Farmhouses in the Forests

Once we had caught our first glimpse of White Pagoda Lake, it was back down into a forest, full of bamboo and wild flowers. We soon came across a couple of beautiful old wooden farmhouses, nestled amongst the bamboo.

Beautiful Old Wooden Farmhouse at Wugen Mountain

The owner of the second, a lovely and charismatic 82 year old lady, was sadly not there the day we visited. However, if you’re lucky enough to catch her, be ready for a photo session and chat. If you’re in the right season, she’ll also ply you with plenty of her home grown cherries.

Local Lunch in the Valley

After the morning’s treats, we broke for lunch at a picturesque restaurant in one of the valleys. A lot of the farming around this area is organic and walking through villages you’ll notice plenty of free range chicken and duck farms. This hinted at a good lunch and we were certainly not disappointed! The seating of the restaurant is situated 5-10m above the restaurant itself, allowing for a peculiar waiter to bring your food up to you.

Mt Wugen Local Traditional Sichuan Dishes

Fully rested and more than satisfied, we continued our walk traversing the peaks around the lake. It was a true pleasure to be amongst all the greenery and, for most of the day, we had the trails to ourselves, rarely encountering any other hikers.

Lives of the Villagers

If you are to encounter anyone else, it will most likely be the local farmers and you’ll notice a predominantly elderly population – like most countryside areas, the young have turned their attention to the city. The local farmers more often than not enjoy a small chat and don’t be surprised if you encounter 80 and 90 year olds still toiling the land. Nearing the end of the walk, you pass through a slightly larger village, with paddy fields and locals weaving bamboo.

The hike concludes by taking you full circuit back to White Pagoda Temple. We did the largest of the walks and it is a decent distance. Although there are a couple of sections which might make you break a sweat, it’s altogether very manageable and all agreed that it didn’t feel like we had just walked 20km. Perhaps this is due to the nature of the hike as it is continuously interesting.